week five: busan and jeju

We visited the Culture Village in Busan, a cute little town atop a mountain with touristy shops with postcards and frozen beer, complete with a BTS mural. The rain finally hit us, and I finally succumbed to purchasing an umbrella. Linen pants soaked through, we ventured to the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, the “most beautiful temple in Korea.” It was, in fact, beautiful, positioned by the sea, adorned with cobblestone steps and curved bridges. In the days that followed, we made our way to the Haeundae Beach where I walked along the boardwalk with a warm cheese and honey hotteok and iced honey Makgeolli and read Middlesex on a stone bench by the water.

Busan felt like a city with older people, and the vibe was distinct from Seoul. I have also felt more judged over the last few days, perhaps for my clothing choices or for the color of my skin, I am unsure.

We have been enjoying many meals centering seafood in Busan and Jeju with highlights of “mackerel” (read: some kind of shellfish) bibimbap, sashimi with wasabi and pickled ginger, and monkfish stew.

When we landed in Jeju, I started experiencing some intense ear pain and was thus convinced to pay a visit to a 24-hour clinic near our Airbnb. I was able to see a doctor within 2 minutes, was given an antibiotic prescription, and picked up my meds at the pharmacy next door 5 minutes later. The whole experience cost $23. Mind. Blown.

cold water on your feet, sunshine on your shoulders, life doesn't get any better

I tasted Jeju’s fresh orange juice many times (including one slush version which was delicious in the heat post-waterfall) and ended the Korea trip back in Seoul at a climbing gym which felt like home and a morning of warm pastries and thick yogurt with honeycomb at the Dotori Garden café. The number of times I’ve cried from eating something too spicy on this trip has gone up to three.

Jumping from country to country, I feel myself becoming much more attuned with the differences in cultural norms in every place—am I supposed to bring my plate up after I finish at a restaurant? How welcoming are people to foreigners? There seems to be a stark difference between countries in Southeast Asia compared to some in East Asia.

I write this, post incredible shower, from my little bed cubicle, hidden behind a protective curtain, Lorde’s new album in my left ear, in my Kyoto hostel. I have replaced my almost daily 7-11 tuna mayo onigiri with a fresh one. Stay tuned for more from Japan xx